Early tourists hold cameras and wide smiles as Angelenos hustle along Hill and Broadway ready to start their day at 8 a.m. Buses await passengers, cars leer over crosswalks, trucks squeeze through narrow lanes. Honks, beeps, and sirens ricochet off the walls of concrete buildings towering overhead.
Turning off 7th Street is an alleyway entrance into St. Vincent Court. The hectic noises of the bustling city suddenly go mute. Asphalt turns into a brick road, where locals stroll leisurely in front of colorful storefronts. A soft wind blows, guiding pedestrians through the faux Parisian street. Old men sit and chat outside of delis and restaurants. They smoke lazily, eyes low and heavy.
District workers and jewelry store owners know their fuel for the day lies further down the path. In a city that relies on the car, Le Cafe Bonjour encourages its customers to stroll in and linger, to witness the hidden beauty of Downtown L.A. If they look hard enough, they may stumble upon gleaming treasure in the form of espresso and hospitality.
Armenian men casually guard the Korean couple swiftly moving on the other side of the cafe glass window. They greet each other with bold “Barevs,” or hellos, in a cafe that features French signage and a bright Brazilian flag. Their cigarette smoke mixes with the smell of brewing coffee, amplifying the European ambience. The craving for a morning coffee may drive customers to stop by, but Gabriel Kim is the reason they keep coming back. The owner-barista attracts a wide range of clientele, some wearing Gucci, others Skechers.
Cafe Bonjour regulars greet Gabriel in Portuguese, Korean, Spanish, Armenian and English.
“Bon dia, Gabriel!”
“Annyeonghaseyo!”
“¡Buenos días!”
“Barev!”
“Good morning!”
Gabriel Kim was born in South Korea, grew up in Brazil, and opened Le Cafe Bonjour in 2010. He speaks Korean, Portuguese, and English fluently and picks up other languages from his diverse clientele.
Gabriel stands behind a small counter and moves swiftly around his wife, Cecilia “Cessy” Kim, while he steams milk and pours shots of espresso. It’s rare that when a customer enters the cafe that Gabriel and Cessy don’t have their order memorized.
Tomer Haviv said that Gabriel’s kindness is one of the main reasons Haviv comes back. Gabriel remembers the names of all his customers and Haviv calls Le Cafe Bonjour “one of the best coffees in Los Angeles.”
Haviv came from Israel eight years ago to work in jewelry. He credits Gabriel’s coffee talent partially to Gabriel living in Brazil for over 30 years and the coffee beans he chooses are “are better, they’re softer roasted, it’s like Italian coffee but real one, not like the ones they bring to America all the time.”
When the New Year started, Haviv asked Gabriel what he could bless Gabriel with. More work? Less work?
“[Gabriel] said ‘No, this is the right amount,’” Haviv said. “And to see something like that in people these days, you know, it’s very rare.”
Le Cafe Bonjour is open Monday through Friday from 8:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Gabriel, Cessy, and their cook, Mireya, run the place all week long.
Customers always let Gabriel know if they’ll be outside or if they’ll return in a few minutes when they’re from the nearby stores. If guests are too caught up in chatter outside and forget they even ordered, Gabriel walks out and delivers it to them, no questions asked.
If they aren’t outside, regulars sit on small stools or stand around the L-shaped counter with cash in their hands patiently waiting to pay.
As Gabriel faces his gleaming Nuova Simonelli espresso machine, Crisitina Valdez strolls into the large pantry-sized establishment as if stepping into her own home.
“Bon día, Gabriel! Hi Ceccy! Hola Mireya” Valdez calls out, rushing to peek over the counter to salute everybody. She begins rapid firing her order, insisting that she’ll pay double for the chicken croquettes because of how good they are. Gabriel doesn’t accept.
“You can’t put a price on this,” Valdez said.
Valdez works in the jewelry district and has been ordering from Gabriel for the past ten years. She “loves” Gabriel and the “vibe” the shop curates that attracts all different kinds of people from the surrounding area.
“[Gabriel] lets me have a tab, so that helps a lot,” Valdez said.
She jokes that Gabriel is just as outgoing as she is. Gabriel stands wearing his casual black t-shirt, jeans and glasses with a deadpan look on his face. A chameleon in the cafe, his peppered hair blends in with the espresso machine.
Before leaving with a bagel and coffee in hand, Valdez teases Mireya, the cook, for hiding from her behind the counter. Mireya’s shy laugh is all they hear while she continues to cook and put away dishes.
“[Mireya’s] a ninja,” Gabriel says.
Gabriel’s teasing explains Mireya’s effort to work in silence, which proves difficult as customers enter and search for her so that they can relay their food order before reaching Gabriel.
While responding to the “Hola Mireyas,” she washes dishes and picks up the phone when Cessy can’t reach it. Although she’s hidden by the tall bakery cabinet and fencing that blocks off the kitchen, her presence is felt through each takeout box and warmed up pastry.
Amid the sounds of searing pans, releases of steam, and whirring of milk is the ringing phone and the soft, sing-song greeting of “Hello Le Cafe Bonjour.”
While her husband takes the orders in front of him, Cessy preps orders for delivery by foot. Once finished, she gently places the order into a rainbow bag and heads off to the St. Vincent Jewelry Center. Cessy zigzags through sparkling diamonds and polished gold to drop off jewelers’ daily dose of caffeine.
Jewelry designer Samira Sizdahkhani walks in asking for Cessy. Gabriel informs her that his wife has just left, leaving Sizdahkhani a bit bummed as she looks forward to Cessy’s warmth as much as Gabriel’s.
Sizdahkhani places her order while Gabriel is making other drinks. His multitasking leads him to double-check if Sizdahkhani wanted her drink hot or iced.
“Whatever you make I’ll drink,” Sizdahkhani replies.
Gabriel cleans his station, wiping down his espresso machine and the counter. Ceccy returns from her delivery with an empty rainbow bag save for the cash.
There’s a communal, silent agreement that this small coffee shop is a safe space. No one rushes Gabriel or speaks rudely. The most upset someone gets is when Gabriel informs them that their friend has already paid for their coffee.
Le Cafe Bonjour radiates a calmness that can be hard to find in a fast-paced city. There’s a reason why jewelers, garbage men, and tourists alike seek this hidden gem. Not only does it provide delicious coffee, but more importantly it allows for a quick breather before taking on the rest of the day.
